Section I - Africa On My Mind
Kente Cloth in Contemporary Diaspora
By Dyese Matthews
Kente cloth originated in West Africa (Ghana) and has a long history and significant cultural associations (Hale 26). Initially created as a cloth made of cotton or silk and worn for ceremonial occasions, authentic kente today is mostly made of rayon threads that are interwoven into long strips, and then the strips are sewn together along the edges to create a full-length kente cloth (Krammer 36). The primary colors of authentic kente are red, yellow, and blue (Hale 26).
“Africans in the Diaspora have sought—in symbolic and material ways—to maintain their ties to their continent of origin ever since their forcible transportation to the Americas”
During the 1960s-70s Black Power era, many Black nationalist groups wore African cloth, especially kente, to express and negotiate their Afrocentric identity (Boateng 214). This use of African inspired cloth continued into the late 20th century and was often implemented in the designs of Black owned urban wear brands such as Cross Colours, Karl Kani, and Coogi (Johnson et al. 2). Due to its use in Black American culture, kente cloth has become a “immediately recognizable marker of Afrocentric identity, needing no explanation” (Boateng 219). However, as consumers we must be cognizant of our purchase decisions as most of the ‘kente cloth’ that is made available now is actually imitation cloth produced outside of Ghana. It is important that we aim for activist consumerism by purchasing authentic kente from African artisans in efforts to support domestic textile production within Africa.
Pith Helmet Reemerges, This Time on Melania Trump
By Daniel Sickle
The pith helmet, a symbol of European colonialism in the African continent, has deep historical roots, having first been worn in the mid-1800s. The helmet was reawakened when First Lady of The United States (FLoTUS), Melania Trump, donned the helmet in Kenya, during her solo trip to the continent. This celebration of colonialism was in stark contrast to Mrs. Trump’s predecessor, FLoTUS Michelle Obama, who preached and practiced inclusivity and representation. Both women masterfully utilized fashion to further fundamental ideals and policies of their own and their husband’s administration.
Home is Where the Cloth is: Aso Ebi and Family Throughout the Nigerian Disapora
By Bumni Osias
The aso ebi, the practice of wearing the same textile, and aso oke, hand-woven cloth, are from the Yoruba people of Southwest of Nigeria. Aso oke, a prestige cloth, is woven in narrow strips (4 – 6 inches) with cotton, silk, rayon or metallic threads. Tailors sew the strips together before they are made into garments. Elaborate embroidery is often added to the necklines and hems of both men’s and women’s outfits.
People will do aso ebi using aso oke during celebratory events such as weddings, funerals, and graduation by family and friends to show proximity to the guest of honor. This practice has waned at times, but today it is popular throughout Nigerian culture on the continent and abroad.
Through aso ebi I tell a story of immigration to Maryland, family, and traditional Yoruba values that have been brought to the US. The cloth was brought back to the US by my grandfather even though there are many Nigerian tailors in Maryland which begs the question - why did my grandfather spend so much time and energy to get a tailor in Nigeria to make the outfits?